Shovels, spades and forks look alike in a store, but each is built for a different job. This guide uses Iowa State University Extension and the LSU AgCenter on digging tools, UC Berkeley and Rutgers on body mechanics, University of Illinois Extension on tool care, and Call811.com on locating buried lines.

Before you dig: Always contact 811 a few business days ahead so underground utilities can be marked.

What digging, shoveling and spading really mean

Many gardeners use the word “digging” for any job that puts a blade in the ground, but Iowa State University Extension explains that digging, shoveling and spading are three distinct actions. Digging turns up, loosens or removes soil. Shoveling moves loose material from one place to another. Spading mixes material and leaves it in the same location. A common example: you dig a hole, spade compost into the soil, then shovel the mix back into the planting hole. Matching the tool to the specific action saves time and reduces strain.

Round-point shovel: the first tool to buy

According to the LSU AgCenter, a round-point, long-handle shovel is the basic digging tool for most people and should be the first choice. The point at the tip concentrates your weight on a very small area, which Iowa State notes increases the pounds per square inch and lets the cutting surface move through soil easily. That same focused pressure becomes a disadvantage if the blade hits a tough root or rock. The LSU AgCenter says this shovel handles general digging such as spading beds, digging holes for plants or digging trenches, and it is available with wood, metal or fiberglass handles. For shoveling out planting holes, Iowa State adds that the round-point works best because its smaller head can fit into tight spaces.

Square-edged spades and dirt shovels

When a job calls for a straight cut, such as edging, the LSU AgCenter recommends a square-edged spade. These come with long, straight handles or short D-handles. A wider version with small sides on the blade is called a dirt shovel and is intended more for moving loose soil than for digging. On a flat surface, Iowa State notes that a square-point, flat-backed shovel works more efficiently for shoveling.

Specialized shovels: scoops and tile spades

The LSU AgCenter describes a wide scoop as a specialized tool with a D-handle, used primarily for moving loose materials. It is especially suited to light bulk materials such as grain, but it gets heavy if filled with soil, sand or gravel. Another specialized tool is the tile spade, also called a ditch shovel or sharpshooter. This long, narrow shovel with a short D-handle is useful for digging deep, narrow trenches and has other uses around a home and garden.

Spading fork vs pitchfork

A spading fork is not the same as a pitchfork. The LSU AgCenter explains that spading forks usually have a short D-handle and substantial tines designed for heavy digging. They can turn over soil and are especially well-suited to digging potatoes because loose soil falls through the tines, revealing the crop. Iowa State adds that a digging fork or a round-point shovel both work well for spading. A pitchfork, by contrast, is traditionally used for pitching hay, straw or manure, and the LSU AgCenter notes it is also useful for turning compost or handling pine straw. It is not the first tool a homeowner needs, but it can be a welcome addition later.

Comparison of digging tools and their best uses

Tool Best for Notes
Round-point shovel General digging, spading beds, planting holes, trenches Point concentrates weight; smaller head fits tight spaces
Square-edged spade Straight cuts, edging Long or D-handle; wider dirt-shovel version for loose soil
Wide scoop Moving light bulk materials D-handle; gets heavy with soil, sand or gravel
Tile spade (sharpshooter) Deep, narrow trenches Long narrow blade, short D-handle
Spading fork Turning soil, digging potatoes, spading Short D-handle, heavy tines; soil falls through
Pitchfork Hay, straw, manure, turning compost Not a primary digging tool; useful later addition

Safe digging technique: work with gravity, not against it

Iowa State Extension advises letting gravity guide you. Gravity pulls straight down, so digging is easiest when you dig straight down. The blade of the shovel should be vertical, not the handle. Once the blade is vertical, add your weight by stepping on the shovel. Limit your work to taking slices of soil rather than fully loaded shovels; this minimizes back and muscle strain and reduces stress on the tools. When lifting a loaded shovel, lift with your legs, not your back, keeping your back straight and knees bent.

UC Berkeley University Health Services reinforces this: bending over puts 8 to 10 times more compressive force on the low back. Instead, use the larger butt and hip muscles to squat or go on one knee when raising and lowering your body. The safe working zone is between the shoulders and hips; when work moves outside that zone, change your body position or use mechanical aids. Rutgers Cooperative Extension adds that when working close to the ground, you should bend from the hips, not the waist, keep the chin off the neck or chest, keep the back straight, and work close to the body. Avoid twisting sideways: face the work area directly.

Shoveling and spading motions

Shoveling is a horizontal movement. Iowa State recommends holding the shovel so its back is on the ground and pushing it into the pile from the end of the handle. Pushing from the end instead of from the side lets your weight do the work. Once loaded, lift with your knees, not your back. For spading, drive the fork or shovel straight down, then use the tool as a lever: push the handle down toward you and the soil comes up ready to be turned over.

Handle length, kneeling and carrying

UC Berkeley suggests using a longer-handled tool or a tool with a pivoting head to keep work in the safe zone. Rutgers advises that if kneeling hurts, use a cushion or knee pads, and consider a padded kneeler that doubles as a stool. Kneel with one knee on the cushion and the other bent at 90 degrees with the foot on the ground, and change position often. For carrying, Rutgers recommends a two-wheeled garden cart over a wheelbarrow because it causes less strain, and to try to push rather than pull. Hold objects close to the body; objects feel heavier when held farther away. Distribute loads over stronger joints or larger surface areas, such as using the palms or forearms instead of the fingers. UC Berkeley adds that you should check the weight of a load before lifting and break down heavier items such as bags of soil into smaller containers.

Tool care: cleaning, sharpening and storage

The University of Illinois Extension emphasizes that high-quality shovels, rakes and pruners cost more but last longer if cleaned and stored properly. Remove soil with a wire brush, paint scraper, stiff brush or a strong blast from a hose. Wipe blades of small hand tools to remove sap or moisture. For stubborn sap, use turpentine, alcohol, mineral spirits or fine steel wool. Oil metal surfaces lightly with a lubricant such as WD-40 to prevent rust. Wooden handles should be free of rough areas; sanding smooths them, and a protective coat of linseed oil can be applied, left to dry, then polished with a soft cloth.

For sharpening, Illinois Extension recommends whetstones with a lubricant such as 3-in-1 oil, diamond-coated flat files that need only water, ceramic sharpeners for quick in-season touch-ups, and bastard files (single-cut flat files) for removing nicks or sharpening blades quickly. Do not use power grinders; heat from friction can make the metal brittle. Store tools off the ground and away from the elements in a shed, garage or barn. Short-handled tools can be stored on a pegboard system, and long-handled tools should be kept on a hanging rack or tool holder to prevent edge damage. At the end of the growing season, thoroughly clean, inspect, sharpen or file blades, and oil metal and wood surfaces.

Call 811 before any digging project

Call811.com states that 811 is the national call-before-you-dig phone number. Anyone planning to dig should call 811 or go to their state 811 center’s website a few business days before digging to request that the approximate location of buried utilities be marked with paint or flags. Hitting a buried line can disrupt utility service, cost money to repair, or cause serious injury or death. Many utilities are buried just a few inches below ground, so even planting a small flower bed or shrub, or installing a mailbox or fence, requires a call. Erosion and root growth can shift line locations over time, so you must contact 811 each and every time you dig. If you hire a contractor or landscaper, confirm that they will contact 811 before work begins. When the marks appear, dig carefully around them, not on them.

For more on choosing and using soil-working tools, see our digging tools category page, as well as guides on garden forks, digging tools for clay soil, post hole diggers and augers, and garden tool storage.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a round-point shovel for edging?

A round-point shovel is designed for general digging, spading beds and digging holes. The LSU AgCenter notes that if you need a straight cut, such as for edging, a square-edged spade is the better choice .

What is the difference between a spading fork and a pitchfork?

According to the LSU AgCenter, a spading fork has a short D-handle and heavy, substantial tines built for digging and turning soil. A pitchfork is traditionally used for pitching hay, straw or manure, as well as turning compost. The spading fork is a digging tool; the pitchfork is a material-handling tool.

Do I really need to call 811 just to plant a few flowers?

Yes. Call811.com explains that many utility lines are buried only a few inches below ground, and an unintended shovel thrust can hit a line even during simple gardening projects. Contacting 811 a few business days before you dig is required for any project that puts a shovel in the ground.

Ready to explore more garden tool options? Browse our full garden tools section for guides on everything from hand trowels to lawn mowers.

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